Things to Do
Big Sur is not a town — it’s a state of mind stretched across 90 miles of the most dramatic coastline we’ve ever seen. We always start from the north, crossing the jaw-dropping Bixby Bridge about 15 miles south of Carmel. We pull over at the vista point on the north side for the classic photograph, then continue south with the ocean crashing hundreds of feet below.
Our first real stop is Pfeiffer Beach ($12 per vehicle), accessed by a narrow, unmarked road called Sycamore Canyon Road. The purple-hued sand and the massive rock arch that channels waves into explosions of spray make this one of the most unusual beaches in California. We time our visits for late afternoon when the light pours through Keyhole Arch. Further south, Julia Pfeiffer Burns State Park ($10 per vehicle) is home to McWay Falls — an 80-foot waterfall that drops directly onto a turquoise cove. The short trail to the overlook is wheelchair accessible and the view stops us in our tracks every time.
For hiking, the Ewoldsen Trail in Julia Pfeiffer Burns climbs through redwood groves and coastal scrub to a panoramic ridge overlook (4.3 miles round trip, moderate difficulty). In Pfeiffer Big Sur State Park, the Valley View Trail is an easier 1.5-mile loop through towering redwoods. We always pack lunch, water, and layers — Big Sur’s microclimates can shift from warm sunshine to cold fog in minutes. There are no grocery stores for long stretches, so we stock up in Monterey or Carmel before heading south.
Where to Stay
Accommodation in Big Sur ranges from tent camping under redwoods to one of the most exclusive hotels on Earth. Budget travelers should reserve a campsite at Pfeiffer Big Sur State Park ($35 per night) well in advance — sites book up months ahead for summer weekends. Sleeping in a tent surrounded by ancient redwoods with the Big Sur River nearby is a profound experience. There are also several private campgrounds along Highway 1 with sites from $40-75.
The Big Sur Lodge, located inside Pfeiffer Big Sur State Park, offers rustic cottages starting around $200-300 per night with no TVs or phones — it’s the most accessible mid-range option right in the heart of the coast. Glen Oaks Big Sur has beautifully designed modern cabins from $325 with heated floors, fireplaces, and river access. For the ultimate splurge, Post Ranch Inn (from $800) sits 1,200 feet above the Pacific with infinity pools, organic cuisine, and a sense of place that justifies the price — we saved for months and don’t regret a dollar. Ventana Big Sur (from $600) is another luxury option with canyon-view glamping tents and a Japanese hot bath.
Where to Eat
Dining in Big Sur is limited and expensive by necessity — everything has to be trucked in on a winding two-lane road. We always bring coolers with provisions from Monterey. That said, the restaurants here have a magic that matches the landscape. Nepenthe ($20-40 entrees) sits on a cliff 800 feet above the ocean and serves an Ambrosia Burger ($24) that’s been on the menu since the 1940s — we eat it on the terrace every time and the view alone is worth the stop.
The Big Sur Bakery is our favorite casual spot — wood-fired pizzas ($18-24) in the evening and excellent pastries and coffee ($5-8) in the morning, all in a rustic cottage setting. For something quicker, the Big Sur Deli at the gas station near Pfeiffer Big Sur makes surprisingly solid sandwiches ($12-16) and is one of the few affordable grab-and-go options on the coast. At the luxury end, the Sierra Mar restaurant at Post Ranch Inn offers a four-course prix fixe dinner ($150 per person) with floor-to-ceiling ocean views — reservations are essential and the experience feels like dining at the edge of the world.
Getting Around
There is exactly one road through Big Sur — Highway 1 — and a car is absolutely essential. There is no public transit, no rideshare service (no cell signal to request one), and no taxis. We always fill up the gas tank in Monterey or Carmel before entering Big Sur, because the only gas station in the area (at the Big Sur Deli) charges a steep premium, often $3-4 more per gallon than in town.
Driving Highway 1 requires patience and attention. The road is narrow, winding, and hugs cliffs with steep dropoffs. We keep our headlights on, pull over at turnouts to let faster traffic pass, and never try to rush. RVs and tour buses can slow things down, especially on summer weekends. Parking at popular trailheads and beaches fills up by mid-morning on weekends — we arrive before 9am or visit on weekdays to avoid the stress. For overnight stays, many lodges and campgrounds are right off Highway 1, making it easy to park and explore on foot. Some of Big Sur’s best moments come from simply pulling over at an unmarked turnout and watching the waves pound the rocks below.