Things to Do
We arrived in Palm Springs with low expectations — we figured it was a place to lie by a pool and not much else. We could not have been more wrong. Our first morning, we drove straight to the Palm Springs Aerial Tramway ($29.95/adult) and rode the rotating tram car 8,500 feet up the sheer cliffs of Mount San Jacinto. The temperature dropped 30 degrees in ten minutes, and suddenly we were standing in a pine forest with snow on the ground while the desert floor shimmered far below. We hiked the two-mile Desert View Trail at the top and the panoramic views stretched all the way to the Salton Sea.
The mid-century modern architecture is what makes Palm Springs truly unlike anywhere else. We booked the Palm Springs Mod Tour ($100/person, 2.5 hours) and our guide — a practicing architect — drove us past the homes of Frank Sinatra, Elvis Presley, and Dean Martin while explaining the design philosophy that turned this desert into a modernist playground. The Sinatra house with its piano-shaped pool is iconic, but we were equally fascinated by the lesser-known Alexander homes with their butterfly roofs and floor-to-ceiling glass. Modernism Week in February is the ultimate time to visit if architecture is your thing.
Indian Canyons surprised us with some of the most beautiful hiking we have done in Southern California. These trails on Agua Caliente Cahuilla tribal land ($12 entry fee) wind through palm oases fed by natural springs — walking through Andreas Canyon felt like stumbling into a secret world. The contrast between the lush palms and the stark desert cliffs is extraordinary. We hiked the 2-mile Andreas Canyon loop in the morning before the heat set in and then cooled off with date shakes ($7) at Shields Date Garden on the way back to town.
Where to Stay
Palm Springs is a hotel town through and through, and the variety is remarkable. We stayed at The Saguaro ($160-250/night), a Technicolor boutique hotel that looks like someone threw a paint party on a midcentury motel — and we mean that as a compliment. The massive pool area is the centerpiece, rooms are comfortable and colorful, and the vibe is social without being a party scene. It is steps from downtown and walkable to restaurants and VillageFest on Thursday nights.
For a more serene experience, we would recommend the Alcazar Hotel ($200-320/night), a beautifully restored Spanish Colonial property with a courtyard pool, complimentary bikes, and a quiet residential-street location. The rooms have authentic midcentury furniture and the evening wine hour is a nice touch. Budget travelers should check out the Caliente Tropics ($90-140/night), a Polynesian-themed motel from 1964 that has been lovingly maintained — it is kitschy, fun, and delivers the retro Palm Springs experience without the boutique price tag.
If your goal is to soak in hot springs, head north to Desert Hot Springs (15 minutes from downtown). Two Bunch Palms ($250-450/night) is the iconic choice — a secluded resort built around natural hot mineral springs where Al Capone allegedly hid out. For something more affordable, the Spring Resort & Spa ($130-200/night) has multiple mineral pools at different temperatures and basic but clean rooms. We spent an afternoon soaking and could feel the minerals softening our skin within minutes.
Where to Eat
Palm Springs dining pleasantly surprised us with quality and value that rivaled much larger cities. Workshop Kitchen + Bar was our standout dinner — set inside a converted 1920s movie theater with soaring ceilings and an open kitchen, the wood-fired menu changes seasonally but our charred octopus appetizer ($18) and house-made tagliatelle ($26) were both perfectly executed. The cocktail program is serious too — their mezcal old fashioned ($15) was one of the best we have had.
For a more casual vibe, we loved King’s Highway at the Ace Hotel ($16-28 entrees), which serves elevated diner food — think cast-iron mac and cheese, fried chicken sandwiches, and thick milkshakes — in a converted Denny’s. Yes, a converted Denny’s, and somehow it works beautifully. The outdoor patio overlooking the Ace’s pool and fire pits made for one of our most memorable casual meals. Breakfast at Cheeky’s ($14-19 plates) was another highlight — they change their menu weekly and we had a bacon flight (five types of house-cured bacon for $12) that was worth the 45-minute weekend wait.
We hit VillageFest on Thursday evening and grazed our way through the street fair food stalls. This weekly event shuts down Palm Canyon Drive for six blocks and fills it with food vendors, artisans, and live music. We built dinner from $5 tamales, $7 kettle corn, $8 tri-tip sandwiches, and $4 fresh lemonade. The people-watching is excellent and the desert sunset over the San Jacinto Mountains forms a dramatic backdrop. Get there by 6 PM for the best selection.
Getting Around
Downtown Palm Springs is surprisingly walkable. Palm Canyon Drive — the main drag — stretches about a mile with restaurants, shops, and galleries on both sides. We walked to dinner every night without needing a car. The free Buzz Bus runs a loop through downtown every 15-20 minutes on weekends and holidays, which is handy for longer stretches in the heat.
Beyond downtown, a car is essential. The Coachella Valley sprawls for miles, and attractions like Indian Canyons (5 minutes), Joshua Tree (35 minutes), the Aerial Tramway (10 minutes), and Desert Hot Springs (15 minutes) are spread out with no public transportation connecting them. We rented through the airport for $40/day and parking was free virtually everywhere — one of the perks of the desert.
Palm Springs is pancake-flat, making it ideal for biking. Many hotels provide complimentary cruiser bikes, and we used them for evening rides through the residential neighborhoods to admire the mid-century homes. The streets are wide, traffic is calm, and the sunset views of the San Jacinto Mountains from a bike seat are hard to beat. For golf cart rentals ($40/half day from Palm Springs Golf Cart Rentals), you can cruise Palm Canyon Drive and the surrounding neighborhood in style — a quintessential Palm Springs experience.