Things to Do
We always start at Lady Bird Johnson Grove, a gentle 1.5-mile loop trail that immerses you in ancient old-growth redwood forest. The trailhead is easy to reach, and the walk is flat enough for all fitness levels. Standing among trees that were old when Rome was young is an experience that never loses its power. There is no fee for the trail — just park and walk into a cathedral of living giants.
Fern Canyon is the other must-do hike. This narrow canyon with 50-foot walls draped in five species of fern looks like something from a dinosaur movie (Steven Spielberg actually filmed scenes from The Lost World here). The half-mile trail involves crossing a shallow creek several times, so waterproof shoes are essential. During summer you need a permit ($12) and the access road requires fording Gold Bluff Creek, which adds to the adventure. We consider this one of the most otherworldly short hikes in all of North America.
The Newton B. Drury Scenic Parkway is a 10-mile drive through the heart of Prairie Creek Redwoods — pull over at any of the turnouts to walk among giants. Keep your eyes peeled for Roosevelt elk herds, which frequently graze in the meadows along Elk Prairie. These massive animals (bulls can weigh 1,000 pounds) are thrilling to see but should be observed from a safe distance. For the coast, Enderts Beach and Gold Bluffs Beach offer dramatic scenery with sea stacks, tide pools, and endless driftwood.
Where to Stay
Accommodation options near the park are limited, which is part of its remote charm. Elk Meadow Cabins ($150-$250) sit right at the park entrance and are our favorite option — they are comfortable and well-equipped, and Roosevelt elk regularly wander through the property at dawn and dusk. The Historic Requa Inn ($130-$200) is a beautifully restored 1914 property overlooking the Klamath River with a wonderful included breakfast.
For the best experience, we camp. Jedediah Smith Campground ($35 per night) is set among towering old-growth redwoods along the crystal-clear Smith River, and we genuinely believe it is one of the most spectacular campgrounds in the country. Gold Bluffs Beach Campground ($35) puts you right on a wild, driftwood-strewn beach. Both fill quickly in summer, so reserve well ahead at recreation.gov.
Crescent City, at the park’s northern edge, has several budget motels in the $80-$120 range. The Curly Redwood Lodge is a quirky standout — the entire building was milled from a single enormous curly redwood tree. To the south, the towns of Trinidad and Arcata offer more dining and lodging options, with rooms from $100-$200, though they are further from the park core.
Where to Eat
This is a remote area, so dining options are straightforward. In Crescent City, we love Good Harvest Cafe for breakfast ($10-$15) with hearty portions and good coffee. The Chart Room is the go-to for seafood dinners ($16-$28) with views of the harbor. SeaQuake Brewing ($7-$9 pints) has good pub food and craft beer after a long day of hiking.
To the south, Trinidad has the excellent Larrupin Cafe, serving mesquite-grilled meats and seafood in a cozy cottage setting ($22-$38 entrees). The Lighthouse Grill in Trinidad serves fresh fish and chips right near the harbor for $14-$18. In Arcata, there are more diverse options — Salt Fish House ($18-$30), Cafe Waterfront, and several good taco trucks ($8-$12).
We always pack lunches when heading into the park since there are no restaurants or stores inside. The Wildberries Marketplace in Arcata or the Safeway in Crescent City are the best spots to stock up. Budget $15-$20 per person for picnic supplies. There is something unforgettable about eating a simple sandwich at a redwood grove picnic table while looking straight up at trees 300 feet overhead.
Getting Around
A car is absolutely essential for visiting Redwood National Park. The park stretches for nearly 40 miles along the coast, and the various groves, trailheads, and beaches are spread out with no public transit connecting them. Highway 101 runs through the heart of the park and is the main artery for getting between sites.
Several roads within the park are unpaved and can be rough, particularly the road to Fern Canyon via Davidson Road. A high-clearance vehicle is recommended for this stretch, though we have seen sedans make it during dry summer months. Howland Hill Road through Sturt Grove of old-growth redwoods is unpaved but passable for most vehicles — it is one of the most spectacular drives in California.
Gas stations are available in Crescent City and Orick, but there is nothing in between, so fill up before heading into the park. Cell service is virtually nonexistent in most of the park, so download offline maps before you go. Plan driving times generously — the scenic parkways encourage slow driving, and you will want to stop constantly. The nearest car rental agencies are at the Arcata-Eureka airport ($60-$90 per day).